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After breakfast at Hotel Europeo in Managua, we
set off to the coffee heartland of Matagalpa, in the north of the
country. It may look like Alex is already back in Massachusetts, but
Nica is full of the same convenience stores we have at home! In fact,
in the photo at right, taken the next day, it is difficult to find any
evidence that the students are in Nicaragua.
Throughout Latin America
and the rest of the developing world, it is not uncommon to find people
catching rides on trucks. On the road to Matagalpa, though, we saw
something I had not seen before: a man riding in a dump truck --
sitting in an office chair!
This particular truck is one of many Russian trucks we saw that dates
to the Sandinista period.
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"Welcome to Latin America!"
These were my words to the students when we
arrived at this crossroads market, about halfway between Managua and
Matagalpa. Prior to this, we had of course been in Latin America, but
in an urban and suburban setting that resembled home more than the
places where we would spend the rest of our journey.
We later learned that this crossroads -- where a major Nicaraguan
highway crosses the Pan-American Highway -- was the site of an
important protest by coffee farmers in 2002.

Matagalpa is the name of one of Nicaragua's most important
coffee-growing states; it is also the name of the state capital. At our
first stop in the city, we were greeted by Jose Selorzano, a Vice
President of UNAG,
which is the Nicaraguan National
Farmers and Ranchers Union. Mr. Selorzano described the general
patterns of agriculture in Nicaragua, and how coffee fits into the
larger picture. He explained that Germans and North Americans
introduced coffee to Nicaragua in 1848.
We also met Felicity Butler, a British woman who works as an organizer
for the CECOCAFEN
co-op and who helped
organize our trip. After a brief introduction to the organization, we
went to the coffee museum, which houses a number of interesting
exhibits about coffee and about the region, including pre-Columbian
artifacts, modern and historic equipment, and murals.
At the museum, Mario Roa of CECOCAFEN explained how he saw the
connections between coffee and broader geopolitical issues, including
the Iraq war.
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