January 24th, 2002. Alice, South Africa
This morning, as I was driving to the university, the road was blocked by 2 cows who were butting heads right in the road. We waited patiently until they had had their fun and then drove on - a great indicator of the rural nature of this region.
Thoughts on being in South Africa. Vernon Domingo
(Number 1)
Jan 28th, 2002.
Ah, being back in South Africa after so many years leaves me almost breathless. The people of South Africa have not changed much since I last lived here in 1982; they are as friendly and helpful as I remembered. There are of course changes - perhaps a greater wariness because of the social turmoil of the last 8 years, but also a sense of future-looking. Much less talk about the horrors of apartheid, and more concern with the immediate questions of how society can meet social needs - job and housing in particular.
I will write much about these questions in the months ahead.
First about where I am - last week I arrived in Fort Beaufort, a small farming town in the Eastern Cape province; when you check on the map, it is located about 150 miles (220 kilometers) northeast of Port Elizabeth. I am living in a house owned by University of Fort Hare which is actually located 23 kilometers east of here. The house is very comfortable, with a lush garden, maintained by a gardener, Edison Kara. This is a largely Xhosa-speaking area with many small settlements, involved with farming. The majority Black population are primarily subsistence farmers, but there has been some land reform - just how much, I have yet to discover. Most of the large citrus farms are White-owned.
The contrasts in living conditions are stark and unsettling, but political power has shifted and there is much talk of "Black empowerment" so the next few years could bring more Black families into the middle class; this is sorely needed.
I am based at the University of Fort Hare, a university which played a major role in bring about an end to apartheid; its alumini include Nelson Mandela (he was expelled for political activism) and other top leaders of the anti-apartheid struggle such as Govan Mbeki, Oliver Tambo, and Robert Sobukwe. The university is on the upsurge after a disastrous few year (especially 1999) when it almost closed. While tensions are inevitable with such dramatic transformation, the future looks good for a dynamic institution to become established. I have met some faculty and academic staff who are all deeply involved at various levels in this process.
The physical geography is very different from that of Massachusetts - hills and valleys are the norm, with scattered trees and low drought-resistant bushes. The area receives only about 22 inches of rain and it is almost always hot - some days the sweat just pours down my face. February is the warmest month and I've been warned it can get really hot then. I'll let you know how that goes.
Just some initial thoughts; if you wish you can email me at vdomingo@bridgew.edu
I would like to hear from you.